Sae 2 Prong Plug Continuous Harness

I am looking at trying to simplify all my various electrical pieces and thought that it would be useful to have a set of jumper cables that plug into the SAE 2 prong connector I currently have connected to my battery for charging (yuasa charger), air pump (bestrest), accessories, etc.
I looked into sourcing these 2 prong connectors locally but have come up dry. I would like to attach some heavier guage copper multi-strand wire to the 2 prong connectors to create a decent length of jumper cable, and another SAE connector for attaching the alligator clips etc.

Powerlet sells the SAE to SAE 2 prong extensions, but they are lighter guage wire and I wonder if they would take the current from a healthy bike battery without zapping the cable.

Any ideas on good online stores / retailers for sourcing SAE two prong connectors? Appreciate any feedback ...

Cheers.
SAE connectors wont work for jumper cables , the only molded connectors I have found in SAE are 16 gauge , not big enough . There is another type connector that will handle the load , the 50 amp size will accecpt 10 gauge wire . I am not sure of the official name but they are used to connect the batterys on electric forklifts . Find a battery wholesaler that deals in industrial and commercial equipment , tell them you need connector plugs like electric forklifts use only smaller . They should know what your looking for . SEYA
You want at least 10 guage wire to jump.
I have these 50 amp SB connectors on my truck to power an air compressor and jumper cable leads.

http://www.powrparts.com/browseproducts/SB-50--Amp-Gray-Connector.HTML
Thats the one , thanks for posting , I suck at computor . SEYA
I have tryed to use my SAE plug to jump a dead battery and it didn't work , had to drop the skid plate (not much fun in a muddy creek bottom ) .
I have been tempted to mount a backup battery in the under seat box , it does fit . Just a bit heavy ...
Thanks guys !
Next time, just take off the right side skid plate cover and jump via the starter relay.
A trolling motor connector is similar design to the SAE connector (might even be compatible?) and is designed for much higher current. They have #10 wires molded in to the connector:
http://www.minnkotamotors.com/products/accessories/detail.asp?pg=mkr12

Check Wally-World in the boating section, you should find a set for about $10 or so.
I have found heavy gauge SAE connectors at some auto parts stores.
There are also these Powerpole connectors that are suitable to 10 Ga wire and do not have any exposed contacts to short out to anything (though with SAE connectors just keep the exposed contact for the hot side ground and they are OK)

http://www.powerwerx.com/product.asp?ProdID=3017&CtgID=3578
I use the 30 amp version of these Powerpole connectors for all my Ham radio gear. The only challenge is to crimp them without buying the $50 tool without getting the crimp barrel too wide to fit into the connector.
Guys
Thanks for the feedback - there are a number of good ideas that I had not thought of that I will look into further.

Thanks for taking the time to post your ideas, links and photos - much appreciated.

Cheers.
Boatman Membership has it's privileges ;-) Supporter

This is my setup. Powerpole (Sermos) connectors with 10ga silicone wire. I made a pigtail off the battery and normally it powers my fuse block,but if I need to jump then I unplug the fuse block and plug in the the jumpers. I've jumped a totally dead R80G/S with no problems.

PS GSWayne..... I solder the Powerpole terminals because I've had the crimp issue also.
SAE 10-gauge:
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-...ONDUCTOR-WATERPROOF-CONNECTOR-AWG-10/-/1.html
And 18-gauge if you want some:
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-...NDUCTOR-WATERPROOF-CONNECTORS-18-AWG/-/1.html

I just ordered 10 of the 18g and 5 of the 10g. I figure I'll use one end of one of the 10g's to direct-connect to the battery, one of the 18g's for a quick disconnect on my GPS, and cut the wire off of one of the 18g's and epoxy the end to make "caps" for when I have nothing connected to the powered leads. The rest will be for anything else I want to add.
Can you please tell me where you sourced your Powerpole connector terminals from, or give me a few more specifics regarding tracking them down. Thanks.
Boatman Membership has it's privileges ;-) Supporter

You might be able to get them at a local electrical supply.
I get them from McMaster Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/

Stock # is 8026K9
You can buy them directly from Powerwerx or from HAM radio dealers.
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I can contribute that in a pinch, you can in fact jump a KLR through a cheap autoparts store SAE lead provided you stuff a piece of solid wire in the inline fuse (I would hope you have the thing fused, right?) At the risk of stating the obvious , this isn't a particularly great idea, but I've done it several times when a plate broke loose in the battery and we were kind of far from civilization.

Also, if we're talking KLRs (I checked your profile) you can remove that black plastic rectangular cover on the left side of the engine and get access to the starter relay. You can jump directly to the starter relay (made easier if you clip the hot jumper wire to a long screwdriver the press the tip of the screwdriver to the appropriate lead). Clip the negative lead to any convenient bit of frame or engine. This is much simpler than removing the side covers and seat to access the battery, and easier than carting along a special jumper cable. If you want extra convenience points, some time over the winter remove the second starter relay entirely (the one that's controlled by the safety switches), trim the bracket that holds the relays, and throw away the plastic cover. Now you can access the whole area really easily and without even a swiss army knife.

Luke
Boatman Membership has it's privileges ;-) Supporter

You are correct....... thanks for pointing out my dyslexia
I made a few using 10g SAE dual conductor cables from AllElectronics.com http://www.allelectronics.com/make-...ONDUCTOR-WATERPROOF-CONNECTOR-AWG-10/-/1.html
for the other end of the cables I bought alligator clips that are about the same size as the ones that come in the kit for most battery tenders, they are technically rated for only 15 amps instead of 30 for the larger ones but its just a solid metal connect, I'm thinking the rubber coating on the handles is just thinner and more susceptible to melting, this was solved by using heat shrink. I got a 4 pack, 2 red and two black at autozone for $2, you can get the slightly larger ones rated for 30 or 50 amp for $3.99
end result is a much much smaller set of jumper cables because even MC specific jumper cables use abnormally large alligator clips.

In extreme temps I have to jump one of my bikes (below 20 degrees) 22 degrees and its fine, 18 degrees and I need a jump, weird.

I will probably take the advice above and tap a second 10g SAE cable and connector to the starter relay

for the cable to plug wire you can use 12g as long as it's around 6ft long, 6ft-10ft use 10g, anything longer use 8g. 6ft is enough for bike to bike but if you ever need to rely on a car get the 10ft because the battery in the car is always on the other side of your bike.

I should make a few extra sets one of these days.
I needed the capability of 20 amps into a tankbag power connection to run all my electric heated clothing and to charge an iPad; this requires 20 amps.
This requires 12 gauge wire and enough length to pull from the tank bag to the battery. I found this one from an RV electrics dealer:

SAE plug connector heavy duty
C) Heavy Duty SAE connector.
The 12 ga. leads are 5 foot long and have a very thick insulation.
Ideal for use with the RV Roof connector shown below.
Polarity protected.
Designed for heavy usage. Made in the U.S.A.

PRICE: ( HD SAE 5 FOOT ) $ 7.00 each

http://www.solarseller.com/low_voltage_dc_pumps__lvm__teel__accessories__plugs_and_extensions.htm
I found some 8 gauge SAE connector cables a while back, they however were not cheap.
I've been making these super heavy duty SAE jumper cables for friends of mine with them. I have two extras, uncut. They are 8 gauge and 14ft long. Cut them to the desired length for the battery side, just long enough to stick out of the bike and add some battery lugs. Add a set of 50 amp alligator clips to the other side and voila.

I also have 2 or 3 sets of 10 gauge SAE connector "jump kits". These sets are slick, one cable is about a foot long with battery lugs, this is what mounts to the bike, the other cable is also about a foot long and the end has a set of high amp crimp connectors. In order to turn them into jumper cables you just pick up a set of cheap mini or motorcycle jumper cables, remove the alligator clamps form one end and crimp them onto this.

If you have a bike whose battery is tough to get to then these are really neat.

Of course they also work well for your battery tender, heated gear connection (with adapter), tire pump, e.t.c.

$40 for the 8 gauge 14ft cables
$20 for the 10 gauge 2 piece set.

I've got two or three sets of each leftover if anyone needs em.